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Heli paddling on the West Coast of NewZealand
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" Picture this. I'm driving to the get out. We're late. The anticipation builds as the reality kicks in. I'm about to get on a run that I've waited eight years to do. The video footage back then had planted a seed of imagination in my mind, today it would be realised... " |
Article by Greg Nicks for PLAYAK.COM, May 2003
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[ This article is a follow-up from the latest Slugs report.
'We're late, so you two get changed while the rest get the gear ready!', Andy's voice collected our efforts. As if the excitement of being at one of the worlds destination paddling areas wasn't enough, I eagerly waited for that distinctive noise that would define this trip. 'Now remember it's like a horse'. Andy shepherded us into position. 'Only approach from the front or the side, the back is the dangerous bit '. Surely the front also, he's never been bitten, I thought. Then it started, the distant but very distinct noise of a helicopter approaching over the ridge. 'So what?' you might say. This chopper was going to land feet away from us and we would climb inside, our kayaks attached to its skids. The blood was rushing through the back of my hands as we effortlessly took off and started our way up the Arahura valley.
'That's the cesspit' Bruce Dando the pilot was giving me the in flight
commentary. Little did he realise that I instantly recognised the drop
from the video, I couldn't wait to be down there. What seemed like only
a couple of minutes later and too many rapids to remember had flashed
below us we were dumped at the get in. You always feel you are a couple
of inches too tall when getting out of a chopper. Colin and I acted like
a couple of action super heroes as we unloaded the kit. As the chopper
took off down the valley for the next load the peace of the situation
was in marked contrast to the cockpit of the chopper. We were surrounded
by the Mountains of the southern Alps, South Island, New Zealand . As
I took in the scenery my mind got back to the white water, it was now
sinking in that we had a long run of white water ahead of us.
The Arahura is one of the most famous runs down the West Coast, but not
only for white water. It is a sacred river in Maori folklore for the Greenstone
that it provides. Essentially a class four river it has its fair share
of class five rapids to shock the system. The crux of the river is the
cesspit, an ugly looking waterfall into a seething cauldron followed by
the most beautiful canyon you'll find. I will have to dedicate
this run to Rob McConnell who swam in the canyon below cesspit to break
his paddle, completely wrap his boat writing it off, and rip his cag open
(Rob had previously snapped a shaft on the Waikaia after trying to bend
it round his head. Rob definitely has more muscle than boat, although
I only feel I can say this now I've left the S. Island because I wouldn't
start one with him). He then had to swim down the last few rapids as this
was the only way out of the sheer canyon. But the story doesn't end there.
The previous week Rob had been on a bender in Queenstown with Andy England
and lost one of his brand new trainers only to get a flea in his ear for
his wanton carelessness from his wife on his return home. He had camped
at the get out the previous night so he could start walking up the Arahura
at the crack of dawn to save money on the flight in order to find favour
with his newly wed partner. He had got half way up only to start coming
down with ‘flu. On the way up in the helicopter we could see Rob
struggling up the path. Having told this sob story to Bruce Dando the
pilot, he went back to pick Rob up as this story must have appealed to
the pilot's sense of charity. So if you ever think you're having bad luck,
think of Rob. Thanks for the entertainment, Rob.
We did the cream of the helicopter flights in the form of the Waitaha,
Perth And 2 days on the Whitcombe. The award for the hardest run goes
to the Waitaha, which I found technically and psychologically grueling.
Porno got stuck in an ugly hole in the first 100 meters and I bagged him
out of it. What can you say, he was
obviously very tired after the experience. Facing facts we were at the
top a long run having just been dropped in the middle of nowhere by helicopter.
Not a word was exchanged as he got back in his boat and we continued on
down the river. Commitment is the word that comes to mind in one of the
canyons in the Waitaha. Scrambling down the bank along the canyon wall
there was a class 5 rapid with no possibility of portage. Towards the
end of one of these canyons, Colin was to add himself to the swim list.
Having done a couple of rounds with mike Tyson in a nasty slot hole he
swam for the green room taking about 20 seconds under. Standing on the
bank I was nearly sucked into his lungs with his first breath. After about
five hours of paddling we approached the final canyon which is a hell
bush bash of a portage, taking over an hour. I was struggling for the
last few ounces of energy as we lowered into the last bit of the canyon
for the last 100 metres of class five before the river opened out to the
get out, after about an 8 hour trip. I paddled the last stretch totally
drained physically and mentally.
If the Waitaha was one of the harder runs then I think one of the best
was the Perth. I am conscious that I am harping on about carnage but the
day on the Perth is too significant to miss. To describe the run gives
me
great pleasure at thinking of the continuous and hard nature of the upper
Perth. All had gone well on this section so we were really excited to
get down to the lower 'easier' section. Supposedly a class 4 canyon it
was to prove that the river is not over until it is over. I paddled into
the side of Marty's head as we were playing in a hole, it looked really
sore as he masticated away to check he hadn't blown a jaw hinge. Right
around the corner on what was essentially a class 3 bit of river he back
looped, split his head and his helmet open on a rock. Then Porno got worked
in a hole for a good minute to claw his way out to safety. Helen got stuck
in the same hole but had a nasty swim. The other group further down the
river asserted that she had swum as her wet suit shoe floated around the
corner. Similarly fellow tangent sister Jo Lucas who was in a different
group again had also swam out of the same hole. The group further on down
the river saw her flip flops floating past and so were getting a good
deal of information about who was swimming further upstream, a kind of
warped bush telegraph!
Have a break, watch some video highlights! (Low quality MPEG files):
- Colin takes on Nevis bluff big and bold: MPEG video, 212 kb
- The bizarre cave rapid on the Waitaha: MPEG video, 80 kb
- Dave in the Cesspit, Arahura river: MPEG video, 160 kb
- Greg in the thick of it ont he upper Whitcombe: MPEG video, 216 kb
- Pete cleans Dent Falls on the Arahura river: MPEG video, 216 kb
- Pete's shoulder refuses to relocate: MPEG video, 296 kb
However
it was on the famous slide further down the river that tragedy would strike.
Now Porno had sat out in Nepal while his shoulder had healed up and had
come back with a vengeance all the way down the West Coast. He had been
paddling hard and his shoulder seemed to be ok. I was first to paddle
the rapid, a slightly tricky lead in over a small diagonal wave to get
access to a ramp. Off the side of the ramp was a particularly famous and
ugly recirculation known to have caught out some particularly good paddlers.
My line was sweet. I watched with the throwline as Porno was up next,
his line being ok, although in what seemed to be true Porno Pete style,
he lazily blobbed off the drop to pop up on the boil not really paddling.
We collectively shouted 'PADDLE !!' at him to get away from the boil,
but the lazy wee tyke just seemed to be floating there. The creeping realisation
was that something was wrong and the hair became erect on the back of
my neck as I could see his left shoulder lying limply to the side.

Now I can't let Porno off without word of his previous epic on the crooked
river. A famous run known to many who have visited the West Coast. Made
famous not only for the superb, clean nature of the lines, but also for
its hellish mode of access to river. A two-hour
walk in through tree roots, mud, slippery slopes and bush bashing will
make this for many their first and last walk in. One of Porno's defining
aspects to his character is his laziness, so halfway up the walk in we
were not surprised to be waiting for him to catch up. Only thing was that
after over an hour of waiting we were starting to get concerned. With
no sign of him back the way we decided to make it to the get in and take
things from there. With there still being no sign of the porn star and
as it was getting late we decided to leave the boats at the get in and
retreat back to the car, in order to concentrate our efforts on the missing
team member. Only as we were about to head back who should come running
down the trail but the missing chap himself. It turned out that he had
got lost, become disorientated and headed down to the river , gaining
access only after abseiling down a cliff. After getting to the bottom
of the river he had actually got in below all of the major and good rapids.
No problem we thought, now we'll have to get on the run and meet Porno
back at the car, Dave Colin and via the river and Porno via the trail
again. It was getting late so I think the 3 of us must have run the river
in record time. All runnable and touching class five in places, it IS
worth the walk in , what a fantastic run.
So
as we arrived at the get out we half expected to see Porno waiting for
us, surely he would know the track by now? As dusk started to creep in
we decided to send in our survival expert Colin into the woods. Dave and
I sat in the car waiting for several hours, it was now very dark. Colin
eventually found Porno snuggled up in a tree root having got lost again
on the way back he had settled in for the night cold, disorientated and
at the end of his tether. Colin pulled him out of the woods using his
survival sense of direction, to greet us waiting in the car with hooting
and hollering. In the end Porno had been bush bashing, crawling and grovelling
around for something like eight hours, all for 10 minutes of grade three!
If we had been another ½ hour later there would have been a rescue
call out for us, funny thing was that Andy England our host was on call
with the rescue team and would have had to come to our rescue.
Our
last helicopter trip would be the Whitcombe. We flew in for two days of
paddling, the hut where we stayed overnight would be the put in for paddlers
doing the next days run, so we were able to chopper in and out our overnight
gear, food, beer and whisky, a multiday with style! The first day saw
us doing some quality class five with its fair share of portaging. One
particularly long portage ended in lowering into an eddy and swimming
into the back of a cave to get back into our boats, The crazy places you
get to when you're out for a paddle!
But as the great Andy England says you never have a bad day on the Whitcombe. His prophecy was to come true, as the next day was a joy. Most notably a whole section of this river had changed in the last few weeks creating a whole new series of rapids. This is testament to the geologically young nature of the rock here, the river is alive with the bed changing all the time.
Our
last blaze of glory in New Zealand would be the conquering of the Nevis
Bluff. A famous test piece of the area the guide giving it a class five
plus. What it lacks in length it more than makes for in punch. Five hundred
metres of charged whitewater more akin to the Zambezi than kiwi creeking.
As the New Zealand tour rounded towards its conclusion, it was time to take stock of the slug tour and where it was going .Due to injury and financial reasons the future for the slug team is a little uncertain. Colin is to leave for South America on a solo mission we will be looking forward to hearing his tales in and out of his boat. Pete is out for the Duration requiring full surgery to his arm. Dave is making ends meet in Greymouth filming. Greg is to head back to the North island for the next few months on a play boating mission, and to earn some much needed cash putting his arm up the part of a cow where the sun doesn't shine(in a professional sense). What does the future hold? Hopefully operations will continue in California for the spring....
Stay tuned for more slug action coming soon on PLAYAK!
The slug team is Colin Aitken, Greg Nicks, Dave Kwant and Peter Kyriakoudis. Their tour of whitewater pleasure continues and will be regularly updated on PLAYAK.COM.
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They support the Slugs. Visit their websites !
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